The Attractions Of Betong

BETONG: FOR GOOD FOOD, CHEAP PRICES & CLEAN COOL MOUNTAIN RELAXATION

Few decades ago, Malaysians would shun going to Betong in Thailand, a small town just a “stone’s throw” away from the common border. It was infamously linked to the outlawed Communist insurgents who used the mountainous  jungle terrain nearby the town as the clandestine enclave to escape the pursuit of Malaysian security forces. The insurgents engaged in jungle warfare tactics against the security forces in Malaysian territory. After each confrontation, they would then seep through the border to the enclave for refuge. 

When the insurgents laid down their armed struggle in 1989 and granted amnesty by the Malaysian Government, some chose to be assimilated into the Thai civilization. Mostly between late 50s and mid 60s in age now, they are either currently in business or trade as peaceful Thai citizens.

Today, Betong is a popular holiday retreat for Malaysian Chinese who seek good Chinese and Thai food, and also to relax in a cool, clean mountain environment not too far from the town – all in very affordable costs. The Malaysian Ringgit is commonly accepted by all businesses as the alternative to Thai Baht. Communication is not a problem as the Thai Chinese there are fluent in Mandarin and the main Chinese dialects. Many local Muslims speak the Malay lingo. Malaysian Chinese would feel at home although in another country.

In the third week of November, I went with close pals Lim Buck Kooi and Kok Mun Sum, along with Buck Kooi’s business associates. This was my second trip to Betong. The first time was slightly more than two years ago, in July with some other pals for “makan-makan” (food savouring) and feasting the “king of fruits” – durian (it was durian season then). 

   

In the recent trip, I had the opportunity to stay in the Winter Flower Garden Resort on highland terrain for the first part of the three-day itinerary. The average temperature at around 18 to 20 degree was pristine. Full bloomed flowers spanning the resort set a pleasing mood. The meals served by the caretakers suited our taste buds well – simple preparations but yet satisfying, especially the fresh own-grown organic vegetables. Activities available after dinner were karaoke, mah-jong and card games. 

The resort was slightly more than an hour’s drive by mini-bus from Betong town. I remembered seeing plenty of durians dangling from trees decked at the sides of the uphill road in my first journey there by MPV in 2011 – which was like a quick browse through without staying overnight – but this time the trees were devoid of the fruits because it was off season. I was wondering……..if it was in season, we could have picked some fruits along the way as there was no fencing to keep off poachers. Even in my first visit, I did not see anybody attending to the plots of land although the fruits were in abundance. Probably the trees are wild, in no man’s land?

A must-visit place which is halfway between Betong and Winter Flower Garden Resort is the Piyamid Tunnel. The entire site encompasses the former main operating camp of the Communist insurgents, with dug-out tunnels serving as refuge hidden in the upper reaches of thick jungle.Visitors can perceive how they lived and survived.

At the fringe of the town is the Betong Hot Spring in Ban Charo Parai  Village. I soothed my tired feet in the pool and then joined the other pals to relax under a tree, sipping a locally concocted herbal wine tonic, fresh coconut water and tucking in some light food bought from vendors. There is also a souvenir shop situated at the entry of the site which offers quite a good range of items at reasonable prices, including comfortable t-shirts in striking colours and awesome designs sold around 200 to 250 Bahts (equivalent to RM20 – RM25).

Now, about food……… I strongly recommend the popular Chinese Tim Sum restaurant (seemed to be the main one in the town) at the corner of Chayachawalit Road and very nearby Mandarin Hotel - where we stayed according to the second part of the itinerary - for breakfast on the third day.  The cuisine available in wide varieties was indeed satiating. Together with another two friends, the three of us "gluttonised" ourselves with 14 baskets of the wares. When we settled the bill in Ringgit, we were really taken aback – RM20, inclusive a pot of Chinese tea for three persons! We couldn’t believe it at first, so we double-checked with the owner whether he had made a mistake. We were affirmed that each basket was only around RM1. Astonishing! The same restaurant served our group excellent dinner on day 2 of the itinerary. Eight large servings for 12 people, and the bill came to only RM280. No fanciful garnishing but the "solid" ingredients exuded the the aroma of each dish.

Overall, food was good and I would say very worthwhile the costs we paid.

If you have never been to Betong and if you are a durian lover, I recommend you go there during the fruit season in the middle of the year. Unfortunately, my recent trip was off season. I remembered I paid RM2 per (good) fruit in my first trip two years ago. Out of curiosity, I checked it out with a fruit stall holder - whom I recognised as the trader who sold me organic durians last time - about the current average price this year. He told it was around RM2.50 to RM3 per fruit, depending on the size – still cheap.

Hotel rates are also comparatively much cheaper than in Malaysia. For RM80 per night on twin-sharing, you can select one of the prime hotels.

All in all, my second visit to Betong was equally memorable as the first. And all in all, it was real money’s worth.

Photos.............

Day 1:

(Duty free outlet at the Malaysian side of the common border as the first visit site in our itinerary.)

                                          (Buying local foodstuffs not available in Malaysia.)

                                                    (Taking a break in a cafe cum bar.)

                           (Is this the largest postbox in the world? Taken from a blog).

                           (In abundance during every durian season - photo taken from a blog.)

          (Trekking up to the tunnel site. There was no plank path those days for the insurgents.)

            ( Such was the original trekking terrain of the insurgents - through very dense jungle.)

        (Briefing by ex-Communist caretaker about the history of Piyamid & the tunnel links.)

                                                         (Map showing the tunnel links,)

                                                    (Treading inside one of the tunnels.)

                                          (This was the radio transmission cum work room.)

  (1. Stone bed for married couples in the tunnel. 2. Going into the work room. Taken from a blog.)

 (That's where marriages among the insurgents were held. Allowed to marry but not giving birth.)

            (Praying place. Of course, it was not so elaborately decorated in those days.)

(Equipments & weapons used by the insurgents. Old photos of leading insurgents are in here too.)

                     (Dried wild herbs and wild herbal health tonics are for sale in Piyamid.)

                                                    (Big organic papayas sold at Piyamid.)

                           (Part of the landscape and view in Winter Flower Garden Resort.)

                           (The own-grown organic greens are served in meals at the resort.)

                                 (Flowers welcome visitors to the chalets where they stay.)

Day 2:

                                             (Betong Hot Spring - for soothing tired feet.)

                                               (Clubhouse and chalets at the hot spring.)

              (Simple but quite hearty lunch in a Chinese restaurant owned by an ex-insurgent.)

                                                  (The small museum and observatory.)

                                                  (That's how big or small Betong is.)

                       (Hot sweet bird's nest soup with mild herbs - only RM21 each person.)

                                            (Thick shark's fin chowder in claypot - RM50.)

                                       (We had "supreme" siew mai as appetizer for dinner.)

                                                     (The best fishcakes I've ever tasted.)

                                              (Fragrant fried rice - looks plain but good.)

                                          (Chicken in soy sauce is a popular dish in Betong.)

                                     (Braised trotters - the savory gravy lingers in the palate.)

                                                          (Succulent "king of ribs".)

                                                       (Steamed fish in chilli padi source.)

Day 3:

  (No regrets trying the tim sum for breakfast in this popular restaurant. Photo taken from a blog.)

(Freshly prepared tim sum in varieties but not fully cooked yet. The selected ones will be placed in baskets to be steamed first for serving to customers. Photo taken from a blog.)


(Checked out of Mandarin Hotel at lunch hour and headed for home - no photos.)